On our recent trip, we managed to go to a number of places we’d previously missed, as well as returning to some old favorites. We enjoyed most everything we tried, with only a couple of disappointments.
First night, our cheeseburger-loving teenagers in tow for the first time, we went to Fajita Republic, a short walk from our room at the Eloisa. Their menu is varied, which allowed our kids to choose something other than the obvious. I’ve had my share of fajitas over the years, but their angus fajitas are the best I’ve had, a 10 out of 10. Their homemade tortillas have a lot to do with it. (Why can’t you find tortillas like that stateside?) It seems they give you a bit more than before, even without an appetizer I was stuffed. They come without any side dishes, but they really aren’t needed. It made 4 large fajitas, which was plenty. I don’t know why they always have so many waitstaff, but it does allow for impeccable service – our dinner for 4 was actually served by 4. Their margaritas aren’t bad either, and the food-to-peso ratio is better than a lot of places with more *atmosphere*, tho this is still one of my favorite after dark places. 4¾ stars
Saturday, we drove south, and had lunch at Chico’s. Yep, it’s pretty touristy, but the view and surroundings are nice, and the food I’ve had there has been pretty good, if not exactly cheap. I had the Mexican platter, which was good sized and tasty. Service was good, and it’s one of the better restaurants to walk around and see the sights. For new visitors, or if you’ve never been, a good place for drinks and appetizers, watching the locals diving off the rocks into the water (for tips.) I’d give it a *good*.
Later that night was at El Dorado, which we’d previously missed. I ended up having beef there (American, nice to see most good places now offering it) which was quite good, along with most everything else we had that night, but what I remember the most was the chips and salsas before dinner. They had a second salsa, pureed, which tasted more like refried beans than anything, and was excellent. I’d never had that with chips before, and if anyone has a recipe for something similar, I’d sure like to know. Service was just ok, ambience is great right on the beach, tho it rained and blew pretty good. Watch out for those palapa roofs, don’t sit too close to the side in wet weather, I got just a bit damp. My daughter was thrilled that she got served a Kahlua and cream after dinner (comped), understandable since she’s not yet 16. We let her have it, she has a bit of wine from time to time at home, and there actually wasn’t much Kahlua in them anyway. Overall, very good.
Sunday we had our first mis-step, going to El Set for brunch. We arrived late, around noon, and the buffet was almost cold. We hadn’t been there in 8 yrs, and it’s gone downhill since. We saw ppl arrive, get food, and end up leaving, which we should have done, but didn’t. They weren’t yet serving their lunch menu, yet they were *open* and seating paying customers. They only took 15% off, and this is one place we won’t go back to. Our very first dinner in PV was there, we walked over from the Camino Real, so it did have some special meaning for us.
We made up for it that night, our first meal at Barcelona Tapas. All I can say is, wow. Our 18 yr old son is only starting to shed some of his childhood suspicions about different foods, and even he says this was the best meal on our trip. A half order of Sangria, and 8 or 9 dishes. Their shrimp bisque was amazing, perhaps the best first course soup I’ve ever had. All the meat and shrimp dishes were outstanding, and the view on our rainy evening was incredible, the wet roofs and streets reflecting the city lights. Impeccable service, and fun atmosphere with the closely spaced tables. Excellent, can’t believe we’ve missed this before. Bring cash, tho.
Monday we ate at El Eden after our Los Veranos trip, and though I remember this as having decent offerings before, it looks like they have different owners. I don’t think I’ve ever had bad refried beans before in Mexico, but they managed to serve some to us. The setting by the river and cascades is refreshing, but the place just looked run down. They cater to tour buses, and the slow service we got when the place was empty was ominous for the tours that arrived after we did. We saw ppl wait almost 45 minutes for food, as we waited almost 20 mins after asking for the check. The only organized tour we ever took in PV was a *Sierra Madre Adventure*, the only jungle part of the entire trip being lunch in this restaurant. Previously ok to good, another place I’m not going back to.
That night was at Joe Jack’s, I had the fish and chips and a side of slaw. The fish was about as fresh as I’ve had, the batter was great, and fried to perfection, not as greasy as most. All very good, I can imagine this place will fill up in season, as the seating area on the roof is quite small. You only have street views, but with the open air, and colorful lights it was really enjoyable. We tried some of the house specialty cocktails, and though they tasted great, we both thought they really needed more booze, and seemed a bit watery, not enough zip to them. My wife asked for more tequila in her margarita, and even then we both agreed it still wasn’t quite right. You can’t go wrong with cerveza tho, and I finished my meal with a Pacifico. Overall, except for the drinks, very good.
Tuesday we ventured up to towards Punta de Mita, Playa Enclote, and returned to Rocio’s about the biggest, busiest place there, which isn’t really saying much. The area’s grown, but you’re still *out of town* there. They offer shrimp about any way you want it, and our waiter, when asked, said it’s best with garlic and butter. Done. They give you almost more than you can eat, and the prices are a bit less than in PV. The beach vendors are voracious tho, the worst we saw. They leave a bucket of cerveza by your table, quite tempting, and add any missing bottles to your tab. Not fancy, your feet are in the sand and the tables are plastic, but I give it a thumbs-up.
That night, another place we’ve missed before, we were at Las Carmelitas. Good thing we took a taxi, I’d have never found it on my own, as I’d been climbing above the south tunnel, the wrong one. We explored some interesting neighborhoods tho. The view from the edge of the terrace is indescribable, one of the best restaurant views anywhere, and a fantastic place to be, watching darkness fall over the city. The arrachera steak is particularly good, but for me it was impossible to entirely separate the food from the surroundings. The only thing missing was some live guitar music in the background, really quite magical at night, surrounded almost entirely by the pitch black jungle. Food was very good, overall experience, excellent.
There are several more places worthy of mention, but that’s for another day…
Ross
First night, our cheeseburger-loving teenagers in tow for the first time, we went to Fajita Republic, a short walk from our room at the Eloisa. Their menu is varied, which allowed our kids to choose something other than the obvious. I’ve had my share of fajitas over the years, but their angus fajitas are the best I’ve had, a 10 out of 10. Their homemade tortillas have a lot to do with it. (Why can’t you find tortillas like that stateside?) It seems they give you a bit more than before, even without an appetizer I was stuffed. They come without any side dishes, but they really aren’t needed. It made 4 large fajitas, which was plenty. I don’t know why they always have so many waitstaff, but it does allow for impeccable service – our dinner for 4 was actually served by 4. Their margaritas aren’t bad either, and the food-to-peso ratio is better than a lot of places with more *atmosphere*, tho this is still one of my favorite after dark places. 4¾ stars
Saturday, we drove south, and had lunch at Chico’s. Yep, it’s pretty touristy, but the view and surroundings are nice, and the food I’ve had there has been pretty good, if not exactly cheap. I had the Mexican platter, which was good sized and tasty. Service was good, and it’s one of the better restaurants to walk around and see the sights. For new visitors, or if you’ve never been, a good place for drinks and appetizers, watching the locals diving off the rocks into the water (for tips.) I’d give it a *good*.
Later that night was at El Dorado, which we’d previously missed. I ended up having beef there (American, nice to see most good places now offering it) which was quite good, along with most everything else we had that night, but what I remember the most was the chips and salsas before dinner. They had a second salsa, pureed, which tasted more like refried beans than anything, and was excellent. I’d never had that with chips before, and if anyone has a recipe for something similar, I’d sure like to know. Service was just ok, ambience is great right on the beach, tho it rained and blew pretty good. Watch out for those palapa roofs, don’t sit too close to the side in wet weather, I got just a bit damp. My daughter was thrilled that she got served a Kahlua and cream after dinner (comped), understandable since she’s not yet 16. We let her have it, she has a bit of wine from time to time at home, and there actually wasn’t much Kahlua in them anyway. Overall, very good.
Sunday we had our first mis-step, going to El Set for brunch. We arrived late, around noon, and the buffet was almost cold. We hadn’t been there in 8 yrs, and it’s gone downhill since. We saw ppl arrive, get food, and end up leaving, which we should have done, but didn’t. They weren’t yet serving their lunch menu, yet they were *open* and seating paying customers. They only took 15% off, and this is one place we won’t go back to. Our very first dinner in PV was there, we walked over from the Camino Real, so it did have some special meaning for us.
We made up for it that night, our first meal at Barcelona Tapas. All I can say is, wow. Our 18 yr old son is only starting to shed some of his childhood suspicions about different foods, and even he says this was the best meal on our trip. A half order of Sangria, and 8 or 9 dishes. Their shrimp bisque was amazing, perhaps the best first course soup I’ve ever had. All the meat and shrimp dishes were outstanding, and the view on our rainy evening was incredible, the wet roofs and streets reflecting the city lights. Impeccable service, and fun atmosphere with the closely spaced tables. Excellent, can’t believe we’ve missed this before. Bring cash, tho.
Monday we ate at El Eden after our Los Veranos trip, and though I remember this as having decent offerings before, it looks like they have different owners. I don’t think I’ve ever had bad refried beans before in Mexico, but they managed to serve some to us. The setting by the river and cascades is refreshing, but the place just looked run down. They cater to tour buses, and the slow service we got when the place was empty was ominous for the tours that arrived after we did. We saw ppl wait almost 45 minutes for food, as we waited almost 20 mins after asking for the check. The only organized tour we ever took in PV was a *Sierra Madre Adventure*, the only jungle part of the entire trip being lunch in this restaurant. Previously ok to good, another place I’m not going back to.
That night was at Joe Jack’s, I had the fish and chips and a side of slaw. The fish was about as fresh as I’ve had, the batter was great, and fried to perfection, not as greasy as most. All very good, I can imagine this place will fill up in season, as the seating area on the roof is quite small. You only have street views, but with the open air, and colorful lights it was really enjoyable. We tried some of the house specialty cocktails, and though they tasted great, we both thought they really needed more booze, and seemed a bit watery, not enough zip to them. My wife asked for more tequila in her margarita, and even then we both agreed it still wasn’t quite right. You can’t go wrong with cerveza tho, and I finished my meal with a Pacifico. Overall, except for the drinks, very good.
Tuesday we ventured up to towards Punta de Mita, Playa Enclote, and returned to Rocio’s about the biggest, busiest place there, which isn’t really saying much. The area’s grown, but you’re still *out of town* there. They offer shrimp about any way you want it, and our waiter, when asked, said it’s best with garlic and butter. Done. They give you almost more than you can eat, and the prices are a bit less than in PV. The beach vendors are voracious tho, the worst we saw. They leave a bucket of cerveza by your table, quite tempting, and add any missing bottles to your tab. Not fancy, your feet are in the sand and the tables are plastic, but I give it a thumbs-up.
That night, another place we’ve missed before, we were at Las Carmelitas. Good thing we took a taxi, I’d have never found it on my own, as I’d been climbing above the south tunnel, the wrong one. We explored some interesting neighborhoods tho. The view from the edge of the terrace is indescribable, one of the best restaurant views anywhere, and a fantastic place to be, watching darkness fall over the city. The arrachera steak is particularly good, but for me it was impossible to entirely separate the food from the surroundings. The only thing missing was some live guitar music in the background, really quite magical at night, surrounded almost entirely by the pitch black jungle. Food was very good, overall experience, excellent.
There are several more places worthy of mention, but that’s for another day…
Ross